Portuguese cabbage soup Caldo Verde

Many national dishes have humble origins and are unlikely to grace any fancy recipe book next to gastronomic courses with noble products. With water, potato and this cabbage the northern Portuguese made Caldo Verde, green broth, and Portuguese all over the world still eat it with pleasure and as an antidote against homesickness. Most peopleRead More

Sole with clams and crushed potatoes

We often go to Dieppe and buy fresh fish there on the quay, walk around the market and have lunch in one of the many restaurants. A favourite place often serves “crushed potatoes’ as a side dish – cooked potatoes crushed with a fork and some cream for smoothness. Back home, I tried my versionRead More

Skordalia and escarole mash

I am not a big fan of fusion cuisine and rather stick to a style. But sometimes the hazards of the seasons, the menu and the larder create interesting cross-cultural combinations. So it was with this Greco-Dutch dish. It is vegetarian but you can have meat with it, like veal chops. Skordalia is a GreekRead More

A roast of veal, turnips, potatoes, tomatoes and mushroom

Veal is a tasty and lean cut of meat. As I wrote before, the problem is to find a good supplier of meat from an animal that has not been mistreated. Once that step is taken, and in France the meat is generally of good origin, you have a fine ingredient. You can eat itRead More

Duckling legs with prunes, beans and tomatoes

Duck is widely used in France, especially in the south-west where they also stuff ducks for the liver. Duck meat is often tough and needs long cooking. On the market in Dieppe, I found a farmer who sold ‘canetton’, ducklings. Not the small birds with a soft down, but larger, almost half-size, birds. This meatRead More

Celeriac and truffle mash

Truffle has become a rather expensive treat as the production of the tubers is dwindling – because there are fewer oak and hazelnut trees and less favourable soil conditions – and the world-wide demand by wealthy gastronomes is rising exponentially. In the 1925 book of Tante Marie, for traditional family cooking, you can find recipesRead More