Category: Fish

21st October 2016

Cod, cabbage and chorizo

Although I now live in a small village near the Pyrenees mountains, I can get good fish at a fishmonger in Mirepoix. The cod filet looked too great to resist. Cod can be bland and I usually spice it up a bit. I had some chorizo left that I had bought at butcher’s who said he made them himself. The cabbage came from the fresh […]

13th October 2016

Jol — small fish fry

When I was younger and not yet living in France, I discovered a small hotel on the Dordogne river (Hotel du Pont in  Groléjac) that served a wonderful fry of small fish. It was called “petit friture” which has the same double meaning as “small fry” in English as it means both fish and frying. There they used goujon, small river fish. In the Paris […]

23rd May 2016

Mackerel fillet with cedrat, lemon juice and rocket

Lately I have been trying to change the rhythm of meals during the day towards a more southern regime – a full lunch and a light dinner. When both my wife and I had full-time office jobs, we would take a quick lunch – sometimes prepared at home and kept in a plastic container – and enjoy a good dinner at the table with the […]

20th October 2015

Goatfish filets with lime

From September to the end of the year, French market fishmongers  offer a brightly coloured red/orange fish called “Rouget’ (the red one), which is in fact a name for various types of fish. The larger ones are the red mullet that are fished in the ocean in big nets. There are also smaller sized fishes, “rouget barbet” (the red bearded one), the size of a […]

7th October 2015

Pan-roasted burbot tails with smoked ham

Yes, burbot. Aka Mariah, freshwater ling, coney-fish. It is a very old species with a kind of spine instead of bones, as well as a rather large mouth, and does not win beauty prizes. On French market stalls you find it already skinned, gutted and beheaded in appetising white parts. The burbot lives in fresh or brackish water, such as river estuaries, and it looks […]

13th July 2015

Coley, chorizo and black rice

Coley, or hake/pollock, is far from a glorious fish. It has a bland taste and the meat tends to flake. It is however a cheap alternative to cod and contains loads of potassium and calcium but also salt. It is very low in fat. It is a good fish to eat but you need to spice it up.

2nd July 2015

John Dory with lime

“I do not know that cocktail” was the reaction of a contact in New York after he heard of my plan to have a “cool John Dory with lime” after a late afternoon (for me) conversation. It is a fish. There are many competing explanations on why the fish is called that way in English – either from Golden Yellow (Jaune Dorée in French, but […]

11th December 2014

Fried smelt

I love fried small fish. We often go to a restaurant on the Dordogne river that serves “friture de poisson” and they are great. Just small river fish and garlic in hot oil. Civelles is also very nice but I tend to avoid that dish as the small eels will never get big and eels risk to become extinct. Small fish like smelt, éperlan, never […]

2nd December 2014

Red Mullet fillets

On the French markets you can find two kinds of reddish fish that look similar apart from their size – the grondin or red gurnard and the rouget barbet or red mullet. The rouget is a small rock fish and is used in Mediterranean fish soups. With the rising sea temperatures it is also caught in the North Sea. It has a central bone and […]

8th November 2014

Japanese-style fish soup with cockles and prawns

From time to time, I go to a Japanese shop in the area around the rue Sainte Anne in Paris, where there are many Japanese restaurants and travel agents. I stock up on some instant soups, seaweed, sesame, yuzu and dashi – a yellow soy paste. On the outdoor market in our village, the fishmonger had cockles, live prawns and cheek of cod. I combined […]