At the moment you can buy fresh garlic in France. They look a bit like spring onions. The bulb has not developed much yet and there is a long green stem. Over the next few months the bulbs will grow and the stems will dry out and lather either be cut off or be usedRead More
We went to the Lalbenque truffle market near Cahors in the southwest of France and I had bought a small 22 grammes black truffle. Truffle has a very delicate taste and you have to be careful not to overpower it with pronounced tastes or smells of other ingredients.
I was slightly surprised when I read on a menu in a small restaurant in the town of Lyons-la-Foret a dish that was called “jambonneau de volaille”, small chicken ham. Ham is pork, chicken is poultry, what is going on here?
It is almost a year ago that I put a recipe for this dish on the blog. This time I made it even simpler and purer. I had a few heads of garlic left over, bought on an organic market, and they were starting to get mouldy so I had to use them or throwRead More
I like chicken and I like to use the grill, but without a rotating spit it is hard to get the bird cooked evenly. As with the spatchcock recipe of August , I removed the spine from the bird and flattened it between two chopping boards before inserting two skewers to keep the legs and wingsRead More
The girolle is a yellow kind of small forest mushroom and belongs to the same family as the chanterelle. But while the chanterelle is usually light brown, the girolle is more yellowish, at least in my experience. It is one of the most harvested mushrooms in Europe, and certainly in France, and it grows duringRead More
I have often wondered about the name “Dutch oven”. I first encountered it during my maiden foreign posting in London, where we lived for several years. As a Dutchman, I had never encountered the name in the Netherlands. There we prepared slow-cooking food in either a “stoofpot” casserole or an oven dish. Just as BrusselsRead More
I prefer to buy my ingredients straight from the producer even though in our modern supermarket world this is not very practical or economical. Most of the time I do my shopping at the local grocery store or on the outdoor market that is held three times a week in my town. But when IRead More
I am very happy to be living in Saint-Germain-en-Laye, but there are of course fewer restaurants than in Paris and the choice of styles is limited. While there are a several sushi-like motorbike delivery services, you cannot get a nice noodle soup like in Tokyo or in the area around the rue Saint Anne inRead More
Julia Child, the doyenne of American writers on French cuisine (Mastering the Art of French cooking, Albert A. Knopf, New York 1961), wrote; “You can always judge the quality of a cook or a restaurant by roast chicken” (revised 34d printing, 1991, page 240). She is right that the execution of simple dishes is aRead More